A wall-mounted TV with a power cord dangling to the outlet is only half finished. There are two legitimate ways to make the wires disappear, and one common shortcut that violates the electrical code. Here is how Solaxay decides between them.
The National Electrical Code, which Pennsylvania municipalities adopt, prohibits running flexible cords, meaning power cords and extension cords, through holes in walls, ceilings or floors (NEC 400.12). The insulation on those cords is not rated for the heat and abrasion of a concealed space, and a damaged cord inside a wall is exactly how fires start behind mounted TVs. Low-voltage cables such as HDMI, optical audio, Ethernet and speaker wire are different: they carry no dangerous current and can be run inside a wall, ideally with an in-wall rated (CL2 or CL3) jacket.
So the question is never whether to hide the power cord in the wall. It is how to get power to the TV legally, and there are exactly two answers: a new outlet behind the TV installed by an electrician, or an in-wall power kit.
An in-wall power kit is a listed product that places a recessed outlet behind the TV and a matching inlet plate near the existing wall outlet, connected inside the wall by permanent building wire (Romex-type cable) rather than a cord. The TV plugs into the recessed outlet; a short, visible cord runs from the lower inlet plate into your existing outlet. The result looks like the cables vanish behind the TV and reappear at outlet level, where a console usually hides the last few inches. HDMI and other low-voltage cables run through the same two openings alongside the power.
Because the kit uses permanent wiring with proper terminals and plates, it satisfies the code without opening the circuit or hiring an electrician. It requires a hollow wall: drywall or plaster over wood or metal studs, with a clear path between the two openings. Fire blocking, insulation, a shared wall with a neighbor's unit, or a fireplace chase can block the route; we confirm with a test before cutting.
A surface raceway is a slim plastic channel, usually 1.5 inches wide, that snaps closed over the cables and runs from behind the TV straight down to the outlet. It can be painted to match the wall and cut to any length, and it holds the power cord as well as the signal cables. Solaxay recommends it in four situations:
A raceway is visible up close but disappears from the sofa when painted, and it is by far the cheaper option.
| In-wall concealment | On-wall raceway | |
|---|---|---|
| Appearance | Nothing visible between TV and outlet level | Slim paintable channel on the wall surface |
| Wall types | Hollow drywall or plaster over studs | Any wall, including brick and concrete |
| Rentals and condos | Often not allowed | Allowed; removable |
| Code compliance | Yes, with a listed in-wall power kit | Yes; cords stay outside the wall |
| Solaxay price | $75 including the power kit | $29 including the raceway |
| Time added | 30 to 45 minutes | 10 to 15 minutes |
If you plan to keep the TV on that wall for years, having a licensed electrician add an outlet behind it is the cleanest result and costs more than a power kit only once. Solaxay does not add new circuits or outlets, because in the City of Pittsburgh and most surrounding municipalities that work requires a licensed electrical contractor and a permit. We are happy to mount the TV and run the low-voltage cables after the outlet is in, and to recommend the outlet position so it hides behind the mount.
Every device adds cables. A soundbar mounted under the TV needs power and one HDMI or optical cable, which fit in the same in-wall path or raceway. Consoles and cable boxes usually live on a console below, so their HDMI cables come down the wall to them and their power stays at the console. Streaming sticks plug straight into the back of the TV and need only a USB or small adapter for power; we tuck those behind the panel. Device setup is a flat line item on the price list, and we test every input before leaving.
